Day 152: Litchfield - Kakadu

We had heard so much good stuff about Kakadu National Park we were really looking forward to visiting it.

Our camp site was at Gunlom Falls, a nice park managed area with hot showers (very important). We set up our tarp and roof tent in the vast park, put on our bathers and set off for the two minute walk to the falls.

After Oly had a brief dip in the cold water we decided to climb the steep path to the top of the falls were there where some beautiful pools and views. The climb was so steep it was bordering on the torturous, but I got there in the end. One assumes the return journey would be a breeze as it is downhill, but in a way it is even harder!

We returned to our camp satisfied that we had worked hard and deserved a nice rest. The camp site was still pretty empty, however three family's who were travelling together had set up camp and surrounded us with their huge tents, a big tarp and three 4x4's.

They were so loud, and their kids were even louder. They kept on kicking their ball into us and under our car. Come 10PM when they were still talking loudly, one said "They have a no noise policy after 10PM" (this is normal for all camp sites) and another replied "It's never stopped us before".

Over the course of the evening three people asked them to keep the noise down. When they finally went to bed, the man in the tent near the foot of our ladder snored so loudly I had to wear ear plugs.

I hate school holidays...

Emelie

2007-06-29 Gunlom Falls, Kakadu PHOTO ALBUM

Day 151: Litchfield National Park

Day two of our Litchfield adventure:

We visited Sandy Creek, Tjaynera Falls

and then marvelled at the intriguing (at least that is what it said on the information board) rock formations of the Lost City

Oly plunged in the very cold pool

of Florence Falls

we were then drawn to the magnetic termite mounds that point to the north

and I stood in front of a rather large non magnetic one...






In the end the only falls we didn't see were Wangi Falls where we were camped at.

Oh and did I mention we also got a flat tyre...

Em

2007-06-27 Litchfield National Park PHOTO ALBUM

Day 150: Darwin - Litchfield

We set off bright and early for Litchfield National Park, a small park 130km south west of Darwin. It is pretty much four waterfalls with delicious plunge pools and if I remember rightly, no crocs!

Our plan is to stay for two nights and as our drive was only just over an hour, so on arrival we had time to start on our itinerary.

On the way to our camp site at Wangi Falls we visited Tolmer Falls. I really needed the empty my bladder, desperately, so when we arrived I trotted off in search of the public toilets, only to find they were pit toilets. Any urges I had quickly disappeared when I opened the lid and peered into a black abyss. I wasn't taking any chances.

Tolmer Falls was OK, we did the short walk to it, had a look past all the other tourists and took the long walk back to the car. It is the start of the school holidays in the Northern Territory and its really packed here and full of kids...

Emelie

Day 148: Sydney - Darwin

A frantic last dash around Sydney before Rob dropped us off at the airport.

Oh well, back to the roof tent.

We loved Sydney...

Emelie

Day 147: Sydney

Sydney is just too fabulous for words, it was also very, very cold.

We walked along the beautiful Darling Harbour

We were amazed at how small Bondi Beach was.

Saw Shrek on the big screen and Dinosaurs, with Tom, on an even bigger iMax screen. Sydney has the worlds largest screening system. We were ducking and diving

Visited the Opera House. I always imagined the Opera House was one building but in reality it is a collection of buildings.

Fearless Oly did a Bridge Walk on the Sydney Harbour Bridge...

...and I took a picture of it from the apartment we were staying in.

We saw creatures from the deep at the Aquarium (not a patch on Aqwa in Perth)

And we watched the sun set over the Harbour Bridge

2007-06-21 Sydney Aquarium, Australia PHOTO ALBUM

2007-06-20 Sydney, Australia PHOTO ALBUM

Day 143: Darwin - Sydney

We caught the 1:30AM Qantas red eye to Sydney and arrived really refreshed with our red eyes hanging out of our head around 6AM. We were not sure if we would make it as Sydney had "cyclonic" weather and it was touch and go that the flight may be cancelled.

Upon arrival we hoped into a cab which buzzed us across the city in the wind and rain to Darling Point which would be our home for the next 5 days. We hadn't seen this much traffic since leaving London.

We're staying with friends of Oly's family (he knows more people in Australia than I do!) and lucky for us they have a spare apartment we can use while we are here. We are in heaven.

Resisting sleep we set off into the morning like true tourists... I just know this is going to be fab!

Em

Day 141: Howard Springs - Darwin

Darwin is quite small, and we haven't had a good look at it yet. Our first priority when we arrived was (apart from the yellow light bulb) to get the flat tyre replaced. We spent a good hour waiting at the only place that we could find to do Cooper tyres.

We had and early lunch at Buzz Cafe in Cullen Bay and chuckled to ourselves when a guy from another table opened a fake door to reveal a painting of a person sitting on the toilet, he got a bit of a fright. Also, according to Oly, in the men's toilet (the real ones) the urinal is a one way mirror so you can see everyone in the restaurant while you are urinating. I guess you could even aim for someone's drink...

Will have to go back and get some pictures!

We are staying overnight at a friend of Oly's family as tomorrow night (actually 1:30AM on Wednesday) we are once again jetting off... this time to the big smoke.

Emelie

Did I mention it is Darwins DRY season and it won't rain for another 3 months. Well you guessed it, we brought the rain with us...

Day 140: Katherine - Howard Springs

Another short hop up to Howard Springs. It was very hot and we cycled 7 1/2 km over to hot springs that you can't swim in as the water is stagnant. The water was clear in a greeny/blue kind of way and we did see many fish and turtles.

Over all we were a little unimpressed. I think the ride took it out of us and knowing we had to ride all the way back in the heat did not make me want to hang around, I just wanted to get it over and done with.

We have been experimenting with a tarpoline for outdoor cover on our overnight stops. Its worked quite well, however our light is white and we were bombed by every little flying bug imaginable. First stop when we get to civilisation is somewhere that sells yellow bulbs. Until then, when the sun goes down we will retreat to the tent.

Em

Day 139: Katherine

Our visit to the Cutta Cutta caves was a spur of the moment decision. These caves are 500 million year old tropical limestone caverns that take you 15 meters below ground on the 30 minute tour. Cutta, in Jawoyn Aboriginal, means stars and Cutta Cutta means many stars, so named after seeing the crystals in the caves twinkling. Incidently, Jawoyn people do not like to go into the caves as it makes them uncomfortable not to be able to see the real night sky.

When we arrived the tour guide informed us of all the creatures that inhabited the caves, huge poisonous spiders related to the funnel web (I think), 5 species of bats that would swoop down and pick the bugs off your clothes, brown tree snakes curled on the ledges above your head waiting to unravel, blind shrimp that would do whatever blind shrimp do, etc etc. I felt a bit swizzed as all we saw in there was one Ghost Bat... I expected to see the place writhing with creepy crawlies! OK so I am exaggerating a little...

At around 25 our tour group was a little on the large size, the one before us only had 2 people. We had to take turns getting next to the tour guide to see what she was pointing at. It was also quite hot and humid and some of the gaps we had to squeeze through were a bit worrying (back to the creepy crawlies).

Our day finished with a lengthy dip in the crystal clear hot springs. The temperature averages 32c. There was even a natural Jacuzzi effect at the mini waterfall.

This is the life!

Em

Day 138: Katherine Gorge

It was an early start this morning to make our 7AM breakfast barge cruise on Katherine Gorge. We managed to park in the wrong car park and had to run half a mile to the jetty only to find there was a problem with the boat and the departure was delayed by 30 minutes. Even if I wanted to complain I was unable too, it took me the 30 minutes just to get my breath back!

We did a 2 hour trip and think now that maybe the 4 hour, if not the full day, would have been better. The 2 hour was over before it began and the tantalising glimpse of what we could have seen if we continued was enough for us to drag our heels back to the camp site debating whether to go again.

There was one barge change after breakfast, the gorge is made up of 13 separate gorges separated by rocks and the longest trip only takes you to 5 of them. On the short walk to the next barge we viewed 10,000 year old Aboriginal rock art paintings belonging to the Jawoyn people who are the custodians of Nitmiluk National Park. They were pretty amazing, and huge, just the fact that they have lasted so long is impressive in itself.

We also saw Jedda's Leap, named after it was featured in the 1955 Charles Chauvel film, "Jedda" where Marbuk and Jedda leapt to their death.

The gorge was eerily quiet, there seemed to be no wildlife, even on the desolate Kings Canyon there were birds to be found.

Emelie

Day 136: Mataranka - Katherine

It was only a very short hop up to Katherine from Mataranka, just over 100km.

We expected Katherine to be a reasonable sized town, leaning towards the biggish side, judging from the font size on our map. Well it wasn't... it felt very much like a one street town and the most bizarre thing was they had speakers all the way down this one street playing the local music radio station. Oly and I kept looking around wondering where it was coming from, then it dawned on us. It was really strange.

Katherine is famous for Nitmiluk National Park where Katherine Gorge is situated. We have booked a breakfast cruise on Friday, I am not sure why I came up with the crazy idea of getting up at 5:45 AM and I am starting to regret it already!

Day 135: Daly Waters - Mataranka

It was mass exodus from the caravan park this morning. It seems people seldom stay more than one night at the Daly Waters pub.

As far as the eye could see, we were convoying with caravan after caravan. It was like playing a game of football, weaving in and out of them in an attempt to overtake. Finally we got to the front and sped off. We were free, the wind blowing through our hair. Then we made a really bad tactical decision. The sign for "Fran's Devonshire Teahouse" got our attention and we pulled over. Lazyitus set in and we couldn't be bothered getting out of the car, we hadn't been driving very long and did not have that stir-crazy feeling. After much umming and arring we decided to carry on. In the time we had faffed around almost all of the caravans had wizzed past us.

So we have arrived nice and early (ahead of all the carvans!) in Mataranka, captial of the Never Never, and secured what we thought was a nice spot in a field, empty but for a few other vans on the other side

I made a huge fry up and we sat down in the glorious sun, soaking it all up. Next thing we know, "Tickled Pink" the biggest Winnebago we have ever seen with a trailer on the back and a car decided, of all the places in all of the camp site, to park next to us.

It was as if someone had turned out the sun.

We looked at each other and said it wasn't too bad and we could put up with it. Then, like a scene from a space movie, we heard the hissing of an "airlock" opening and watched as the side of the van extended out, presumably make their interior living space bigger.

As if they didn't have enough room already.

Mataranka's attractions are huge termite mounds everywhere there is space to build them and thermal hot springs.

We spent far too long in the hot springs which were sublime. It water was crystal clear and warm. One chap floated past me and commented on how wrinkly my toes had got, to which I replied "Its a sign I have spent too long in here", a woman near by called out "We were all wrinkly when we got in!" to which I laughed and then thought maybe I was not meant too.

Emelie

Big: Termite Hill - Mataranka, NT

Day 134: Borroloola - Daly Waters

Having had such a long day before, we decided to take today a bit easier.

We spent a while chatting with our neighbours and they had recommended a small walk at Caranbirini NP about 40km South of the camp site, and on our route anyway.

We left fairly early and headed to the walk. It was a lovely place, the walk winds around and then in between some very precarious looking rock formations. We both had memories of Picnic at Hanging Rock. Although in all honestly this place is a lot smaller. After meanderinng through the rocks we went to the water hole which was incredibly picturesque. Of course, as we are now in the Northern Territory, the water hole, like many others had Crocodile warning signs!

Next we drove for 2 to 3 hours along never ending landscapes to Daly Waters. Daly Waters or more specifically the Daly Waters Pub, is pretty well known. Although for the longest amount of time I questioned what the hell we were doing there, or it for that matter!

Daly Waters as a town is about 1km off the Stuart Highway, and is very very small, maybe a half dozen buildings. The pub is the main attraction. It was built a very long time, like most of these lonely places, as a place to rest on long journeys. I believe it's population soared durinng the 2nd world war when loads of the RAAF were stationed there. Oh, I forgot to mention that as well as a pub it has an airfield!

Now it is a tourist trap, which holds nothing back. Everything from personalised wood tags (made on the spot) to T-shirts. Outside they they have various signs like "Most Remote Traffic Lights". Inside, the walls and ceiling are absolutely covered in stuff: money; caps; knickers; bras; football scarves; photos; business cards; and so on. And of course in the middle of all this you have dozens of people (nearly all Australian) with their cameras taking loads of pics.

I hope you are now cringing, because I sure was. And yet, having said all that, we had an absolutely great evening. The place was packed, by 3pm they had no more powered sites left, and all the people who stayed had to go into the field. There must have been well over 100 cars and caravans. In the evening, the pub does a set dinner with entertainment. They menu had a choice of 3 meals; Barra (Barramundi), Beef, or Barra & Beef. All served with a buffet of salad and vegetables. And whilst you are eating they put on a really great show with jokes, music, and plenty of audience participation late into the night.

I can't finish this post without mentioning Jo-Jo. On the camp site we met a nice couple from Melbourne, George and Robyn, and we ended up eating with them and their friends that night. But not before spending some time with Jo-Jo their lovely and slightly over fed cattle dog. Jo-Jo apparently came from a working farm, but basically refused to do any work. Luckily she was able to find a new home where work was not on a the schedule. Anyway, as some of you can imagine (although you might not want to), Jo-Jo sparked the singing voices in both of us. Yes, Emelie and I spent the next several days singing "Get back, Get back, Get back to where you once belonged, Get back Jo-Jo".

Oly

Day 133: Normanton - Borroloola

Across the Savannah Way with not a care in the world.

The unsealed road started from Burketown and after 500km, too many creek crossings to count, a flat tyre and one near miss with a roo, we arrived in the dark at Borroloola.

It was not our intention to go as far as we did, we were going to stay at one of the two roadhouses on the way, but when we got to them they were closed. No fuel, no water, nobody in sight. One offered, by means of a sign on the fence, camping with no power or ablutions for a shocking $25. The name said it all!

So we carried on.

Our flat tyre incident was much more successful than the Henry episode. This time it all went smoothly as Oly rapidly put the spare on, I only had time to eat two oranges while I watched!

The creek crossings were fun, though they did get deeper with each one and each time we wondered if we were going to disappear down a hole.

I must say, this roof tent is fab. It takes us minutes to put up and put away and it is soooo comfortable.

Em

Day 132: The Lynd - Normanton

After a peaceful nights sleep we set off to Normanton.

The nights are getting really cold, we are using a blanket as well as a duvet, plus we are sleeping in track pants and fleece. Thankfully the days are hot reaching into the 30's.

Normanton is a small town. It has a distinctive purple pub and is home the The Gulflander train, the oldest original railway line in Australia and said to go from nowhere to nowhere. It was designed by George Phillips. He designed and patented steel sleepers that were hollow and packed with mud. This ingeniously avoided the need for ballast on the track. They could also be submersed, thus fixing the problem of "the wrong kind of" flooding on the track. These type of sleepers are still being used today. Not bad for a town called "nowhere".

Em

Oh and there was also a Big Barramundi we forgot to take a picture of... its not the same without Henry :(

Day 131: Townsville - The Lynd

It was raining too hard yesterday so we didn't leave until today. The sun was shining in the glorious morning sky. Typical.

First stop, Charters Towers, and it was back to school for me. We stopped for a coffee on the High Street before walking to St Mary's College where Sam and I boarded for several years. We lived in Bougainville where there was not sufficient schooling for children of our age so we had to fly down to Queensland. I was there from the age of 11 until we moved to Perth at the end of year 9 (14). I have very fond memories of that school and it was nice to go back. I do have a few cringe worthy photos of my time there on Picasa if anyone wishes to indulge.

	St Mary's College Photo Album

Next, and final, stop the Oasis Roadhouse were we camped for the night. The roadhouse is said to have Australia's smallest bar. We didn't' actually see it (not because it was that small it was unable to be seen by the naked eye) we just never ventured into the main building as we got there quite late.

The camp site was very basic, no power and ponies grazing around us. When the sun went down we scampered up to our roof tent and watched the incredible display of stars in the sky, it was stunning.

Em